As more and more curious outsiders are taking a good, hard look at Cleveland, a city currently in the midst of a Rust Belt revival, they are seeing a chef-driven food scene a good 20 years in the making. These days, you can’t toss a bagel without hitting a big city bistro, craft brewery and taproom, or small-batch ice cream shop, all of which thrive alongside decades-old Cleveland classics.

Michael Symon might have given the humble pierogi a makeover at Lola Bistro, where it is filled with slow-simmered beef cheeks and topped with a dollop of horseradish creme fraiche. But for many locals, there is only one true version, and it is served up without fanfare at this 90-year-old Polish cafeteria. The fact that citizens of every stripe grab trays and shuffle down the lunch line is proof that pierogi are a birthright for many a Midwesterner. All day long, these potato- and cheddar-cheese-filled dumplings languish in a warm bath of melted butter with sauteed onions creating a soul-satisfying dish of pure comfort food. 

Photo courtesy of Ben Pettey.

Superior Pho, around since 2002, was Cleveland’s first shop dedicated to that blissful Vietnamese beef noodle soup. And in a climate like this one, where winter outlasts one’s patience, soup is a mental health requirement. But when it comes to grabbing a quick and affordable snack on the go, we tend to bypass the broth and head straight for the banh mi. At just $5 a pop, they’re bought by the sack, with each bundle of joy tidily wrapped in wax paper. Inside, crisped little baguettes are slathered with mayo and filled with roast pork, homemade pâté, crispy cukes, jalapenos and a fistful of fresh herbs, resulting in a near-perfect arrangement of texture and flavor. 

Founder Brandon Chrostowski got his start in top-tier restaurants here and abroad, but when he set out to open a Cleveland bistro of his own, he charted a very different course. In place of seasoned pros like himself, Chrostowski brought in formerly incarcerated folks who needed a second chance. During the six-month program, student-employees work every station, from prep cook to server, learning how restaurants actually work and picking up a trade that can serve them well for years to come. It would be reasonable to look at Edwins as a charity case, deserving of our money for reasons other than food, service and setting. But that’s not the case at this stellar French bistro, where quality trumps cause on a daily basis.